What Is Gel Polish? Complete Guide to Gel Manicures

Quick Answer: What Is Gel Polish?
Gel polish is a UV or LED light-cured nail coating that combines the ease of traditional polish application with the durability of gel systems. It creates a high-shine, chip-resistant manicure that typically lasts 2–3 weeks without chipping, peeling, or losing gloss.
Key characteristics: Thin, self-levelling formula, requires UV/LED lamp curing, soak-off removal with acetone, minimal odour compared to acrylic, and no filing or shaping of natural nail required.
Primary benefits: Long-lasting color (2–3 weeks), immediate drying (no smudging), high-gloss finish that does not dull, strengthens nails slightly through protective coating, and wide color selection.
Understanding Gel Polish: The Hybrid Nail System
Gel polish revolutionised the nail industry by bridging the gap between traditional nail polish (which chips within days) and hard gel or acrylic systems (which require professional application and removal). It offers the best of both worlds: easy application like regular polish combined with the durability and shine of gel systems.
The Origin of Gel Polish
The modern brush-on gel polish system was invented by Danny Haile, founder of Nail Harmony (USA), who created Gelish in 2009. This revolutionary product was the world’s first soak-off gel polish packaged in a nail polish bottle with a built-in brush, fundamentally changing the nail industry.
Before Gelish: UV-cured gels existed but were sold in pots and required separate brush application, similar to acrylic systems. These pot gels were primarily used for extensions and overlays, not as simple colour services.
Gelish’s innovation (2009): Danny Haile patented the brush-in-bottle formula and process, creating a gel that applied like regular polish but cured under UV light. First showcased at ISSE Long Beach 2009, Gelish demonstrated a “soak-off brush-on gel” lasting 2–3 weeks with acetone removal. This invention became the blueprint for every gel polish system that followed.
CND Shellac (2010): One year after Gelish, Creative Nail Design launched Shellac, marketing it as a “Power Polish” hybrid system blending gel and traditional polish ingredients. Whilst CND did not invent gel polish, Shellac popularised the service worldwide through aggressive marketing and salon education. Shellac’s key selling points were easy 10-minute soak-off and no nail plate filing required, appealing to health-conscious salons.
Shellac became so ubiquitous that the brand name became generic—many clients still call all gel manicures “Shellac” even when other brands are used, similar to how “Hoover” represents all vacuum cleaners.
Timeline of Early Gel Polish Development
| Year | Brand / Product | Innovation |
|---|---|---|
| 1988 | Bio Sculpture (South Africa) | First soak-off UV gel for natural nails (pot format, not bottle) |
| 2007 | OPI Axxium | Pot-style colour gel for overlays (precursor to GelColor) |
| 2009 | Gelish (Nail Harmony) | FIRST brush-in-bottle gel polish system (patented) |
| 2010 | CND Shellac | Popularised gel polish globally; “Power Polish” hybrid formula |
| 2010 | Jessica GELeration | Early professional alternative to Gelish |
| 2010 | IBD Just Gel / Gelac | Full-hand LED curing; direct Gelish competitor |
| 2011 | OPI GelColor | OPI’s brush-on gel polish entry (following Gelish format) |
| 2011 | LeChat Perfect Match | First system pairing identical gel and lacquer shades |
By the mid-2010s, virtually every professional nail brand had launched a gel polish system following Gelish’s bottle-and-brush format. Today, major brands include:
- Gelish – The original (Nail Harmony, 2009)
- CND Shellac – The populariser (2010)
- OPI GelColor – Extensive shade range
- The GelBottle Inc (TGB) – UK-based, known for BIAB and colour range
- Artistic Nail Design – Colour Gloss system
- Jessica GELeration – Established professional line
- Bio Sculpture – Original soak-off gel pioneer (now in bottle format)
How Gel Polish Works: The Chemistry
Understanding how gel polish works helps explain why it lasts longer than regular polish and why proper application and removal techniques are essential.
The Science Behind Gel Polish
Gel polish is composed of oligomers and monomers—small molecules that remain liquid until exposed to specific wavelengths of UV or LED light. When cured under the lamp, a process called photoinitialization occurs:
- Light activation: UV or LED light triggers photoinitiators in the gel polish formula
- Cross-linking: Oligomers and monomers form chemical bonds, creating a solid polymer network
- Hardening: The liquid gel transforms into a hard, durable coating bonded to the nail plate
- Completion: The manicure is instantly dry and ready for immediate use
Why Gel Polish Does Not Smudge
Unlike traditional polish that dries through solvent evaporation (which takes hours to fully harden), gel polish cures through a chemical reaction that completes in 30–60 seconds under the lamp. Once cured, the gel is fully hardened and cannot smudge, dent, or damage—allowing immediate return to normal activities.
LED Lamps: The Modern Standard
Gel polish curing requires an LED lamp—the modern industry standard that has replaced older UV tube lamps. LED lamps emit targeted wavelengths (typically 395–405nm) that cure gel polish rapidly and safely.
Why LED became the standard:
- Fast curing: 30–60 seconds per layer (versus 2–3 minutes with old UV tubes)
- Long bulb life: 50,000+ hours (no frequent bulb replacement needed)
- Energy efficient: Lower power consumption and heat generation
- Minimal UV exposure: Reduced skin exposure compared to UV tube lamps
- Consistent performance: No degradation in curing power over time
⚠️ Critical: Use Compatible Lamps
Budget LED lamps under £100 may lack correct wavelength intensity or safe curing protocols, leading to under-cured gel and increased allergy risks. Always use the brand-recommended lamp for your gel system to ensure complete curing and avoid heat spikes or under-polymerisation.
Professional LED Lamp Pricing (2025)
LED lamp prices vary significantly based on features and quality:
- Budget home use: £30–£80 (basic LED functionality)
- Mid-range professional: £80–£150 (reliable brands, proper wattage)
- High-end professional: £150–£350+ (advanced features, multiple sensors)
- AI-enabled technology: £300+ (built-in computer, display, WiFi connectivity)
Professional recommendation: Invest in a quality LED lamp (minimum £80) from a reputable brand. Cheap lamps often under-cure gel polish, leading to premature lifting, peeling, and increased risk of allergic reactions from uncured monomers.
Types of Gel Polish Systems
Gel polish systems vary in complexity and steps required. Understanding the differences helps both professionals and clients choose the right system.
Three-Step System (Traditional)
The most common and reliable gel polish system consists of three separate products:
- Base coat: Bonds to the natural nail and provides adhesion for color
- Color coat: Provides pigment and coverage (typically 2 coats)
- Top coat: Seals color, provides high-gloss shine, and protects against wear
Advantages: Maximum longevity, best adhesion, highest quality finish, widest color selection.
Application time: 45–60 minutes including preparation.
Two-Step System
Combines base coat and top coat into one product, requiring only:
- Base/top coat: Applied before and after color
- Color coat: Provides pigment (typically 2 coats)
Advantages: Faster application, fewer products to purchase, simplified process.
Disadvantages: May have slightly shorter wear time, potentially less durable than three-step systems.
One-Step Gel Polish
All-in-one formulations that combine base, color, and top coat properties. Simply apply multiple coats of the same product.
Advantages: Fastest application, simplest process, minimal product investment.
Disadvantages: Limited color range, shortest wear time, may not adhere as well on problematic nails, less professional finish.
No-Light Gel Polish
Hybrid formulas (like Essie Gel Couture) that claim gel-like wear without UV/LED curing. These are technically not true gel polish—they are enhanced traditional polish with improved formulas.
Reality: Whilst better than regular polish, no-light “gel” systems rarely match true gel polish longevity and typically last 5–7 days rather than 2–3 weeks.
Professional Gel Polish Application Process
Proper application technique is critical for achieving the advertised 2–3 week wear time. Poor preparation or application is the primary cause of premature lifting and chipping.
Step-by-Step Application Guide
1. Nail Preparation (Most Important Step)
This step determines 80% of your manicure longevity:
- Sanitise hands: Wash with antibacterial soap and dry thoroughly
- Push back cuticles: Remove dead tissue using cuticle pusher and proper technique
- Remove cuticle completely: Any cuticle tissue left on nail plate will cause lifting
- Shape nails: File to desired length and shape using 180-grit file
- Buff nail surface lightly: Use 180–240 grit buffer to remove shine (do not over-file)
- Clean nails thoroughly: Remove all dust and debris with lint-free wipe
- Dehydrate: Apply nail dehydrator or isopropyl alcohol to remove oils
⚠️ Critical Preparation Warning
Skipping or rushing nail preparation is the number one cause of gel polish failure. Cuticle residue, oil, or moisture on the nail plate prevents proper adhesion, causing lifting within 2–5 days. Professional technicians spend 60–70% of service time on preparation for this reason.
2. Base Coat Application
- Apply thin, even layer of base coat
- Maintain 1–2mm gap from cuticle and sidewalls (avoid skin contact)
- Cap free edge (seal tip of nail) if manufacturer recommends
- Cure under lamp: UV (2 minutes) or LED (30–60 seconds)
3. Color Application (First Coat)
- Apply thin, even layer of gel polish color
- Maintain gap from cuticle and sidewalls
- Cap free edge
- Cure under lamp
4. Color Application (Second Coat)
- Apply second thin layer for full opacity
- Maintain proper gaps
- Cap free edge
- Cure under lamp
5. Top Coat Application
- Apply thin layer of top coat over entire nail
- Cap free edge thoroughly (this is most important for longevity)
- Cure under lamp (may require longer cure time—follow manufacturer guidelines)
6. Finishing
- Remove sticky inhibition layer (if present) using alcohol or cleanser
- Apply cuticle oil to nourish cuticles and surrounding skin
- Advise client on aftercare
Professional Tip: Thin Layers Are Key
Many beginners apply gel polish too thick, thinking it will last longer. The opposite is true. Thick layers cure improperly (staying soft underneath), cure with excessive heat (causing pain), and are more prone to peeling. Multiple thin layers always outperform one thick layer.

Gel Polish vs Other Nail Systems
Understanding how gel polish compares to other nail enhancement systems helps in choosing the right option for different needs:
| Feature | Regular Polish | Gel Polish | BIAB | Hard Gel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Application | Brush-on, air dry | Brush-on, UV/LED cure | Brush-on, UV/LED cure | Sculpted, UV/LED cure |
| Drying Time | 10–60 minutes | Instant (after curing) | Instant (after curing) | Instant (after curing) |
| Longevity | 3–7 days | 2–3 weeks | 3–4 weeks | 4–6 weeks |
| Thickness | Thin | Thin | Medium-thick | Thick |
| Strengthening | None | Minimal | Moderate | Maximum |
| Removal | Acetone wipe | Acetone soak | Acetone soak | File-off only |
| Extensions | No | No | 2–3mm max | Unlimited |
| Skill Level | Beginner | Beginner-Intermediate | Intermediate | Advanced |
| Cost (UK salon) | £10–£25 | £20–£50 | £30–£60 | £40–£80 |
Gel Polish Longevity and Maintenance
How Long Does Gel Polish Last?
Under ideal conditions with proper application, gel polish typically lasts 2–3 weeks before requiring removal or infill. However, actual wear time varies based on multiple factors.
Factors Affecting Gel Polish Longevity
- Preparation quality: Proper prep is the single biggest factor
- Natural nail condition: Oily, thin, or damaged nails may not retain gel polish as long
- Lifestyle and occupation: Water exposure, harsh chemicals, and physical work reduce longevity
- Application technique: Thin layers, proper curing, and capping free edge
- Product quality: Professional brands outperform cheap alternatives significantly
- Nail growth rate: Faster-growing nails show grow-out sooner
- Aftercare compliance: Using gloves, avoiding harsh chemicals, daily cuticle oil
When to Remove or Maintain Gel Polish
Remove immediately if:
- Lifting occurs at cuticle or sidewalls (moisture can penetrate, causing infection risk)
- Chipping exposes natural nail
- Client experiences discomfort, itching, or redness
- Visible damage to natural nail underneath
Schedule removal at 2–3 weeks even if intact:
- Natural nail growth creates gap at cuticle (unprofessional appearance)
- Prolonged wear beyond 3–4 weeks increases dehydration and nail weakness
- Extended wear increases difficulty of removal
Proper Gel Polish Removal Methods
Correct removal technique is essential to prevent nail damage. Improper removal is the leading cause of thin, weak, damaged nails—not the gel polish itself.
Professional Removal Process (Acetone Soak Method)
- File the surface: Use 180-grit file to break through top coat and remove shine (do not file excessively)
- Prepare acetone wraps: Soak cotton pads in pure acetone (not nail polish remover)
- Wrap each nail: Place acetone-soaked cotton on nail, wrap with foil or use gel removal clips
- Wait 10–15 minutes: Allow acetone to dissolve gel polish
- Gently remove softened gel: Use orange wood stick (never metal tools) to slide away dissolved gel
- Do not force or scrape: If gel resists, re-wrap and soak longer
- Buff residue gently: Use fine buffer to remove any remaining gel film
- Hydrate thoroughly: Apply cuticle oil and hand cream—acetone is extremely dehydrating
⚠️ Never Pick or Peel Gel Polish
Picking or peeling gel polish removes layers of the natural nail plate along with the gel, causing significant damage, thinning, and weakness. This damage can take months to grow out. Always use proper acetone removal or visit a professional salon.
Alternative Removal: E-File Method (Professionals Only)
Experienced nail technicians trained in e-file use can safely file off gel polish without acetone, avoiding nail dehydration. This method requires:
- Professional-grade e-file with proper RPM control
- Correct carbide or ceramic bits
- Thorough training and practice
- Light pressure and controlled technique
- Understanding of natural nail anatomy
Not recommended for home use due to high risk of damage without proper training.
Common Gel Polish Problems and Solutions
Why Does Gel Polish Lift Immediately?
When gel polish lifts within hours or days of application, the first layer failed to bond to the natural nail. This is different from lifting that occurs after 1–2 weeks due to natural wear.
Immediate lifting causes:
- Gel touching skin during application: Even small amounts of gel on cuticles or sidewalls act as a barrier, preventing proper adhesion and creating immediate lift points
- Under-curing: Wrong lamp type, weak/old lamp bulbs, or insufficient cure time leaves gel partially liquid underneath, preventing bond formation
- Surface contamination: Oil, moisture, nail polish remover residue, or lotion on nail plate before application creates a barrier layer
- Damaged or over-filed nail plate: Excessively buffed or peeling nails lack stable surface for gel adhesion
- Premature water/heat exposure: Exposing nails to hot water, steam, or extended moisture within 12–24 hours of application (before gel fully stabilises)
- Incompatible products: Mixing different brand systems (base coat from one brand, colour from another) can cause adhesion failure
Prevention: The 24-Hour Rule
Avoid prolonged water exposure, hot baths, saunas, swimming, or intensive hand washing for 24 hours after gel polish application. The gel continues to stabilise during this period, and premature moisture exposure can compromise the bond.
Why Is My Gel Polish Lifting?
Lifting is the most common complaint. Primary causes:
- Inadequate preparation: Cuticle residue, oils, or moisture on nail plate
- Product touching skin: Gel polish contacting cuticles or sidewalls
- Failure to cap free edge: Not sealing the nail tip allows moisture penetration
- Over-filing natural nail: Damaged nail surface does not retain gel properly
- Oily nail type: Some clients naturally produce excess oil that interferes with adhesion
- Under-curing: Insufficient cure time leaves gel soft and prone to separation
Why Does My Gel Polish Chip?
- Free edge not capped: Most common cause
- Layers too thick: Thick gel does not cure properly and peels
- Lifestyle factors: Excessive water exposure, harsh chemicals, physical work
- Nail length too long: Longer nails flex more, stressing gel polish
Why Does My Gel Polish Peel Off in Sheets?
- Severe under-curing: Gel never fully hardened
- Contaminated nail plate: Lotion, oil, or moisture prevented adhesion
- Wrong lamp wavelength: Using UV gel in LED lamp (or vice versa) without compatibility
- Expired or old product: Gel polish loses effectiveness over time
Why Is My Gel Polish Sticky After Curing?
The sticky layer (inhibition layer) is normal and intentional for most gel polish systems. It allows layers to bond together. Remove with alcohol or cleanser after final top coat only.
If gel polish is sticky underneath the surface (feels soft when pressed), it is under-cured. Cure longer or check lamp functionality.
Why Did My Gel Polish Wrinkle or Flood the Cuticle?
- Application too close to cuticle: Gel flows into cuticle area during curing
- Too much product: Excess gel floods sidewalls or cuticle
- Moving hand before curing: Gel shifts position if hand is tilted
Gel Polish Safety Considerations
Understanding Gel Polish Allergies
Gel polish contains methacrylate compounds that can cause allergic contact dermatitis with repeated exposure to uncured product. Symptoms include:
- Redness, swelling, and itching around nails
- Blistering or hives on fingers
- Burning or tingling sensation
- Nail separation (onycholysis) in severe cases
⚠️ Critical Allergy Information
Gel polish allergies are typically permanent once developed. The immune system becomes sensitised to methacrylates, and reactions often worsen with continued exposure. Prevention through proper application (avoiding skin contact) is essential. See allergy prevention and patch testing protocols.
Safe Application Practices
- Never allow uncured gel to contact skin: Maintain 1–2mm gap throughout application
- Clean spills immediately: Wipe uncured gel from skin with alcohol instantly
- Ensure complete curing: Under-cured gel contains reactive monomers
- Work in ventilated areas: Reduce chemical vapor exposure
- Use professional products: Cheap formulations may contain harmful ingredients
- Consider HEMA-free alternatives: If sensitivity history exists
Master Professional Gel Polish Application
Learn proper preparation, application, and troubleshooting techniques from professional nail educator Radina Ignatova.
- ✓ Complete nail preparation protocols
- ✓ Thin-layer application technique
- ✓ Preventing lifting and chipping
- ✓ Safe removal methods
- ✓ Client aftercare education
Who Should NOT Wear Gel Polish? (Contraindications)
Whilst gel polish is safe for most people, certain nail and health conditions make it unsuitable or require professional medical clearance before application. Understanding contraindications protects both client health and technician liability.
Absolute Contraindications (Do Not Apply)
Gel polish must not be applied if any of the following conditions are present:
🚫 Fungal or Bacterial Infections
Onychomycosis (nail fungus): Visible discolouration (yellow, green, brown, white patches), thickened nails, crumbly texture, or foul odour indicate fungal infection. Covering with gel polish traps moisture and worsens infection. Client must seek medical treatment and wait until infection completely clears (often 3–6 months post-treatment).
Bacterial infections (green nail, paronychia): Green discolouration indicates pseudomonas bacterial infection. Redness, swelling, or pus around cuticles indicates paronychia. Both require medical treatment before any nail service.
Why dangerous: Gel polish creates an anaerobic environment that accelerates bacterial growth and can lead to permanent nail damage or systemic infection.
🚫 Onycholysis (Nail Separation)
When the nail plate separates from the nail bed, creating a gap where moisture, bacteria, and debris accumulate. Appears as white or yellowish area under the nail, often starting at the free edge.
Why contraindicated: Gel polish applied over separated nails traps moisture underneath, encouraging bacterial or fungal growth. Onycholysis must resolve completely before gel polish application. Causes include trauma, psoriasis, thyroid disorders, or previous allergic reactions.
🚫 Active Allergic Reactions or Known Acrylate Allergy
If client has experienced itching, redness, blistering, or swelling around nails from previous gel polish services, they have likely developed acrylate allergy. This is typically permanent and worsens with continued exposure.
Symptoms of allergy: Red, itchy, swollen cuticles or fingertips (often appearing 24–72 hours after service), blistering or hives on fingers or areas that touch nails (face, neck, eyelids), nail separation (allergic onycholysis).
Action required: Stop all gel polish services immediately. Recommend HEMA-free alternatives only after medical consultation. Even HEMA-free systems contain other acrylates and may trigger reactions. Patch testing recommended before reintroduction.
Relative Contraindications (Proceed with Caution or Modification)
The following conditions require assessment, client consent, and modified technique:
- Excessively thin or damaged nail plates: Over-filed, peeling, or paper-thin nails from improper removal or damage. Gel polish application requires light buffing which further thins the plate. Consider waiting 4–6 weeks for nail regrowth, using BIAB for reinforcement instead, or applying gel polish with zero buffing (though adhesion may be compromised).
- Psoriasis or eczema affecting nails: Autoimmune conditions causing nail pitting, ridges, or separation. Gel polish may adhere poorly and acetone removal can worsen dryness. Requires medical clearance and extensive aftercare with oils and moisturisers. Some clients find gel polish protective; others experience flare-ups.
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding: No conclusive evidence that gel polish harms pregnancy, but some women prefer to avoid all chemical exposure as a precaution. Acetone fumes during removal may cause nausea in pregnant clients. Well-ventilated areas essential. Many pregnant clients safely wear gel polish throughout pregnancy; individual comfort level and medical advice should guide decision.
- Chemotherapy or immunosuppression: Cancer treatments and immune disorders can cause nail changes (brittleness, ridging, slow growth) and increase infection risk. Clients undergoing chemotherapy should consult oncologist before nail services. If approved, use impeccable hygiene and consider shorter wear time (1–2 weeks) to monitor nail health.
- Diabetes: Poor circulation and delayed healing increase infection risk. Minor cuts or trauma during cuticle work can become serious. Diabetic clients can safely receive gel polish with: experienced technician who avoids cutting cuticles, excellent hygiene protocols, and immediate attention to any redness or swelling. Regular monitoring essential.
- Very young children (under 16): Many reputable salons will not offer gel polish services to clients under 16 years of age. Thin, soft nail plates in younger individuals make buffing risky, and gel polish may not adhere well to developing nails. Some manufacturers specifically advise against use on minors due to increased sensitivity risk and thinner nail plates. If service is requested for teens aged 13–15, parental consent is essential, and minimal-to-zero buffing should be used with well-ventilated area and close monitoring for any adverse reactions.
Professional Responsibility
Nail technicians must:
- Conduct thorough consultations asking about nail health, allergies, and medical conditions
- Visually inspect nails before every service for contraindications
- Refuse service when contraindications present (protecting both client and professional liability)
- Document consultations and any concerns in client records
- Refer clients to medical professionals when infections or allergies suspected
- Maintain professional indemnity insurance covering all services offered
When in doubt, do not proceed with service. It is always safer to refuse a service than risk client harm or professional liability.
LED Lamp Safety: What Research Actually Says
One of the most common concerns about gel polish is LED lamp safety. Current dermatology research provides clear evidence that LED nail lamps do not increase the risk of skin cancer when used for professional nail services.
The Research Evidence
LED lamps emit very small doses of UVA radiation, and exposure time is extremely short—typically 30–60 seconds per layer, totalling just a few minutes every 2–3 weeks.
Published reviews from The British Journal of Dermatology, JAMA Dermatology, and The Skin Cancer Foundation report that the risk from LED nail lamps is considered extremely low to negligible, especially when compared to everyday UVA sources like:
- Walking outdoors on a sunny day
- Driving in a car (through windows)
- Sitting near windows at home or work
- General daylight exposure
Key finding: Most studies conclude that LED nail services are safe for the general population, and no link has been found between LED curing lamps and skin cancer in clients or nail technicians.
Professional Consensus
Dermatology organizations worldwide agree that LED nail lamp exposure during typical gel polish services poses negligible risk. The brief, infrequent UVA exposure does not approach levels associated with photoaging or skin cancer development.
Is Gel Polish Safe for Nail Technicians?
Yes. Gel polish is safe for professional nail technicians when proper protocols are followed. Understanding occupational risks and prevention measures ensures long-term health for professionals working with gel systems daily.
LED Exposure for Technicians
Nail technicians receive far less LED exposure than clients because their hands are not placed inside the lamp during curing. Technicians may hold the lamp or position it, but their skin does not receive direct UVA exposure during the curing process. This makes LED lamp exposure a non-issue for professionals from a UV exposure standpoint.
Primary Occupational Risk: Acrylate Allergy
The main health concern for nail technicians is repeated skin contact with uncured gel polish, which can lead to acrylate sensitisation and permanent allergy. Professionals handle gel products daily, significantly increasing exposure risk compared to clients who visit every 2–3 weeks.
Prevention measures for professionals:
- Wear nitrile gloves during application: Creates barrier between uncured gel and skin (latex and vinyl gloves may not provide adequate protection)
- Avoid all skin contact with uncured product: Wipe spills immediately with alcohol before curing
- Use proper curing techniques: Ensure complete polymerisation with correct lamp and timing
- Work in well-ventilated areas: Minimises vapour inhalation
- Wash hands thoroughly after services: Remove any product residue
- Never eat, drink, or touch face during services: Prevents product transfer to mucous membranes
- Take breaks between clients: Reduces continuous exposure
Professional Best Practices
Experienced nail technicians develop systems that minimise contact risk:
- Dispense gel polish onto palette or mixing surface rather than working directly from bottle
- Use applicator brushes that stay clean and dry
- Keep alcohol wipes readily accessible for immediate spill cleanup
- Change gloves between clients to avoid cross-contamination
- Monitor skin for early allergy signs (redness, itching, dryness) and cease work immediately if symptoms develop
Long-term professional health: Nail technicians who follow safety protocols can work with gel polish systems throughout their entire careers without developing allergies or health issues. The key is prevention through proper technique and protective equipment from the very first application.
If Allergy Develops
If a nail technician develops acrylate allergy (indicated by persistent redness, itching, blistering, or nail separation), they must stop all gel work immediately and seek medical advice. Once sensitised, continued exposure worsens the reaction and can lead to severe dermatitis. Alternative career paths within the nail industry (natural manicures, nail art with non-gel products) may be necessary.
Understanding HEMA in Gel Polish
HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a monomer found in nearly all gel polish formulations. Understanding HEMA is essential for both professionals and clients concerned about allergies and product safety.
What Is HEMA?
HEMA is a small acrylate molecule that forms the building blocks of cured gel polish. During application, HEMA exists as liquid monomer. Under UV/LED light, photoinitiators trigger HEMA molecules to link together (polymerise), forming the hard plastic coating on your nails.
Why HEMA is used: HEMA creates flexible, durable, high-gloss films that adhere well to keratin (nail protein). Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate and bond effectively, which is why gel polish lasts 2–3 weeks without chipping.
HEMA and Allergy Risk
HEMA is the most common allergen in gel polish systems. When uncured HEMA contacts skin repeatedly, the immune system can become sensitised, developing a permanent allergy. This is contact dermatitis, not a toxic reaction—HEMA is not poisonous, but it can trigger immune responses in susceptible individuals.
Key Facts About HEMA Allergy
- ✓ Affects approximately 2–3% of gel polish users who experience repeated skin exposure
- ✓ Once developed, HEMA allergy is typically permanent and worsens with continued exposure
- ✓ Caused by uncured gel touching skin—fully cured gel polish is chemically inert and safe
- ✓ Prevented by proper application technique: maintaining 1–2mm gap from cuticles and sidewalls, cleaning spills immediately, ensuring complete curing
- ✓ Cross-reactions possible: HEMA is used in dental materials, medical adhesives, and contact lens solutions
HEMA-Free Gel Polish: Fact vs Fiction
Reality: Most “HEMA-free gel polishes” are actually builder gels (BIAB), not true thin gel polish. True brush-on gel polish relies on HEMA’s small molecular size for proper adhesion and flexibility. Removing HEMA typically requires thicker, more viscous formulas.
HEMA-free alternatives exist but have trade-offs:
- Often less durable than standard gel polish (lasting 1–2 weeks instead of 2–3)
- May require more coats for opacity and coverage
- Can feel thicker and less flexible on the nail
- Still contain other acrylates (IBOA, Di-HEMA TMHDC, etc.) which can also cause allergies
- Generally more expensive due to specialised formulation
Important: “HEMA-free” does not mean “allergy-proof.” All gel systems contain acrylate compounds that can sensitise skin with improper use. HEMA-free systems reduce risk but do not eliminate it entirely.
Safe HEMA Handling
For professionals and home users:
- Never allow uncured gel to contact skin – the single most important safety measure
- Apply carefully to avoid skin contact during application (technique varies by system and professional training)
- Clean spills immediately with alcohol before curing
- Cure completely using recommended lamp and timing
- Wear nitrile gloves (professionals applying gel polish daily)
- Work in ventilated areas to minimise vapour exposure
When these precautions are followed, gel polish containing HEMA is safe for the vast majority of users. Problems arise only when product is mishandled or allowed to contact skin repeatedly.
For more information, see HEMA-Free Gel Systems and Nail Allergy Prevention.
Gel Polish vs Shellac vs Regular Gel: Clearing the Confusion
Clients frequently ask about differences between these terms. Understanding the distinctions helps set accurate expectations and choose the right service.
Gel Polish (Generic Term)
“Gel polish” is the umbrella term for any UV/LED-cured polish system packaged in a bottle with a brush applicator. This includes all brands: Gelish, OPI GelColor, The GelBottle Inc, CND Shellac, and hundreds of others.
Characteristics: Thin formula, brush application like regular polish, requires base coat and top coat, cures under LED lamp in 30–60 seconds per layer, lasts 2–3 weeks, removes with acetone soak.
Shellac (Brand Name)
“Shellac” is CND’s proprietary gel polish system launched in 2010. It became so popular that many clients use “Shellac” to mean any gel polish service, but technically Shellac refers only to CND’s specific product.
What makes Shellac different:
- Hybrid formula: Blends gel polymers with traditional polish solvents, marketed as “Power Polish”
- No buffing required: Natural nail shine can remain (though many techs lightly buff anyway for better adhesion)
- Faster removal: Designed to soak off in 5–8 minutes versus 10–15 for standard gel polish
- Slightly less durable: Many users report Shellac lasting 10–14 days versus 14–21 for other gel polishes
- System-specific: CND recommends using Shellac base, colour, and top coat together for best results
In practice: Shellac and other gel polishes deliver similar results—long-lasting, glossy colour requiring UV/LED curing and acetone removal. The differences are subtle and come down to brand preference and specific formula characteristics.
“Regular Gel” (Pot-Style Gel)
When professionals say “regular gel” or “gel overlay,” they typically mean pot-style gel (not gel polish). This includes:
- Builder gels (BIAB): Thicker viscosity, used for strength and structure, applied with brush from pot or bottle
- Hard gels: Non-soak-off gels used for extensions (must be filed off)
- Sculpture gels: Used to create nail art, 3D designs, or encapsulation
These are not the same as gel polish. They are thicker, stronger, and serve different purposes (reinforcement or extension rather than just colour).
Quick Comparison Table
| Product Type | Application | Purpose | Removal | Longevity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gel Polish (any brand) |
Bottle + brush Thin layers |
Colour + gloss Minimal strength |
Acetone soak 10–15 min |
2–3 weeks |
| Shellac (CND brand) |
Bottle + brush Thin layers |
Colour + gloss Easier removal |
Acetone soak 5–8 min |
10–14 days |
| Builder Gel (BIAB) |
Bottle/pot + brush Thicker layers |
Structure + strength Optional colour |
Acetone soak 15–20 min |
3–4 weeks |
| Hard Gel | Pot + brush Sculpted |
Extensions Maximum strength |
File off only No soak |
4–6 weeks |
Bottom line: If someone offers you a “Shellac manicure,” you are getting gel polish—specifically CND’s version. If they offer “gel manicure” without specifying Shellac, you are getting another brand of gel polish. The service and results are essentially the same across all brands when properly applied.
Client Education: Making Your Gel Polish Last
Gel polish longevity depends not only on professional application but also on client aftercare. Proper maintenance extends wear time, protects nail health, and prevents premature lifting or damage.
Essential Aftercare Guidelines
🚫 Never Pick or Peel Gel Polish
This is the number one cause of nail damage from gel polish. When gel polish begins lifting at the edges or experiences minor chips, the temptation to pick at it is strong. Resist this urge completely.
Why picking is destructive: Gel polish bonds to the top layers of your nail plate. Peeling removes those keratin layers along with the gel, leaving nails thin, weak, and prone to splitting. This damage takes months to grow out. A single instance of peeling can undo months of healthy nail growth.
What to do instead: If lifting or chipping occurs, book removal appointment immediately or carefully remove at home using proper acetone soak method. If only one nail is affected, you can remove and reapply just that nail.
Daily Cuticle Oil Application
Nails under gel polish do not receive regular moisture from lotions during hand washing. The gel creates a waterproof barrier, which protects the nail but can also lead to dryness over time.
Recommended routine:
- Apply cuticle oil to all nails and surrounding skin at least once daily (twice is ideal—morning and evening)
- Massage oil into cuticles, sidewalls, and under free edge
- Use jojoba oil, vitamin E oil, or commercial cuticle oil products
- Continue oil application even with gel polish on—it penetrates around edges and keeps cuticles healthy
Benefits: Prevents cuticle dryness and hangnails, keeps gel polish flexible (reducing cracking), maintains nail plate hydration, extends gel polish wear time by keeping cuticle area supple.
Wear Protective Gloves
Whilst gel polish is water-resistant, prolonged exposure to water and chemicals weakens the bond between gel and nail plate, causing premature lifting.
When to wear gloves:
- Cleaning and household chores: Bleach, detergents, and cleaning chemicals soften gel polish and penetrate lifted edges
- Washing dishes: Hot water and dish soap combination is particularly damaging
- Gardening: Dirt under nails and physical stress on free edges
Prolonged water and chemical exposure can weaken gel polish adhesion over time. Protective gloves are the easiest way to extend your gel polish longevity.
Avoid Using Nails as Tools
Treat your nails gently. Do not use them to:
- Open ring pulls, cans, or bottles
- Scrape stickers, labels, or dried food
- Pry open lids or containers
- Pick at things or scratch surfaces
- Type aggressively (gentle tapping only)
Leverage force on the free edge creates stress that causes gel polish to chip or lift. Use proper tools (bottle openers, knives, scrapers) instead.
When to Schedule Maintenance
Book your removal or reapplication appointment at the first sign of:
- Lifting: Gap appears between gel polish and natural nail at cuticle or sidewalls
- Visible regrowth: 3–4mm of bare nail showing at cuticle line (typically 2–3 weeks)
- Chipping: Pieces breaking away from free edge or surface
- Dullness: Loss of shine indicates surface breakdown
- Discomfort: Any itching, redness, or sensitivity around nails
Why prompt removal matters: Lifting creates gaps where moisture, dirt, and bacteria accumulate. This can lead to green nail (bacterial infection) or fungal growth. Early removal prevents these complications.
Recognising When Something Is Wrong
Seek professional advice or medical attention if you notice:
- Persistent itching, redness, or swelling around nails or fingers
- Blistering, hives, or rash on hands, face, or neck
- Green, yellow, or dark discolouration under gel polish
- Foul odour from nails
- Nail separation from nail bed
- Excessive nail thinning or brittleness after removal
These symptoms may indicate allergy, infection, or nail damage requiring treatment. Do not continue applying gel polish until the issue resolves.
Education for Long-Term Nail Health
Understanding proper aftercare transforms gel polish from a potential risk into a safe, long-lasting enhancement. Clients who follow these guidelines consistently achieve:
- Full 2–3 weeks of perfect wear without lifting or chipping
- Healthy nails that remain strong between services
- Reduced need for urgent repairs or early removal
- Lower risk of infection or allergic reactions
- Better value from their investment in professional services
For comprehensive preparation guidance, see Nail Preparation Techniques. For removal protocols, consult your nail technician or follow manufacturer instructions carefully.
Frequently Asked Questions About Gel Polish
What is gel polish made of?
Gel polish is made from oligomers (short polymer chains), monomers (single molecules), photoinitiators (light-activated catalysts), pigments, and additives. When exposed to UV or LED light, photoinitiators trigger a chemical reaction that bonds monomers into long polymer chains, creating a hard, durable coating.
How long does gel polish last?
Gel polish typically lasts 2–3 weeks with proper application and care. Longevity depends on preparation quality, application technique, natural nail condition, lifestyle factors, and product quality. Some clients achieve 4 weeks, whilst others may experience shorter wear due to oily nails or demanding occupations.
Is gel polish bad for your nails?
Gel polish itself is not inherently damaging when applied and removed correctly. Damage occurs from improper removal (picking, peeling, or excessive filing), over-filing during preparation, prolonged wear without breaks, or allergic reactions from skin contact with uncured product. Proper technique and removal protect nail health.
Can you apply gel polish at home?
Yes, with proper equipment (UV/LED lamp, professional products) and technique training. However, home application often results in shorter wear time and higher risk of damage due to inadequate preparation or removal. Professional services typically provide superior results and longevity.
Do you need a UV lamp for gel polish?
Yes, gel polish requires UV or LED light to cure (harden). Without proper curing, gel polish will not dry and will remain sticky indefinitely. Regular nail polish does not require a lamp as it air-dries through solvent evaporation.
Can I use regular nail polish top coat over gel polish?
No. Regular polish will not adhere properly to cured gel and will peel off quickly. Always use gel top coat over gel polish. The reverse (gel top coat over regular polish) also does not work as the solvents in gel will dissolve regular polish.
Why does gel polish hurt during curing?
Heat sensation during curing occurs when gel polish cures rapidly, generating an exothermic (heat-releasing) reaction. This is most common with clear gels, glitter polishes, and builder gels due to their chemical composition and light penetration. Thick layers intensify the reaction. Solutions: apply thinner layers, pull hand out briefly if uncomfortable (flash cure), then return to complete curing. If heat is excessive, reduce layer thickness.
Should I give my nails a break from gel polish?
Breaks are not medically required when gel polish is applied and removed correctly. Healthy nails do not need to “recover” between gel applications.
However, a break may be beneficial if your nail technician identifies:
- Thinning or over-filing from previous incorrect preparation
- Dehydration from excessive acetone exposure
- Peeling or splitting layers
- Visible stress, trauma, or structural weakness
- Signs of lifting, inflammation, or possible allergy
- Damage caused by picking or peeling products at home
A qualified nail technician has a professional and ethical responsibility to: assess nail condition at every appointment, advise if a break is needed, explain why, and provide a plan for nail recovery and aftercare. Choosing a properly trained technician is essential. A competent professional will never keep reapplying gel over nails that are clearly damaged.
During any recommended break, focus on: daily cuticle oil, keeping nails short, avoiding excessive water exposure, using gloves for cleaning, and gentle nail care only.
Can you do French manicure with gel polish?
Yes, gel polish is ideal for French manicures as it maintains its white/color distinction without chipping. Apply sheer pink or nude base, cure, then apply white tips, cure, and seal with clear top coat. Longevity far exceeds traditional polish French manicures.
Do my nails need to “breathe”?
No. Nails do not need to “breathe.” The nail plate is made of keratin, a non-living protein—it has no lungs, no blood supply, and no respiratory function. The oxygen and nutrients your nails require come from the bloodstream in the nail bed, not from the air.
What people really mean by “let nails breathe”:
When clients say this, they are usually referring to:
- Correcting damage from previous improper removal
- Taking time to hydrate nails after excessive acetone exposure
- Avoiding further trauma from aggressive filing
- Addressing dryness, brittleness, or peeling
- Giving the technician time to restore nail integrity
In these cases, the issue is damage, not “lack of breath.”
When a break might be advised: A credible nail technician may recommend a temporary pause from gel if nails show dehydration, thinning, over-filing damage, peeling layers, past picking, sensitivity, or early signs of allergy. This is about nail health, not oxygen.
Why does my gel polish lift immediately after application?
Immediate lifting (within hours or days) indicates the first layer failed to bond to the natural nail. Common causes: gel touching skin during application, under-curing from wrong/weak lamp, surface contamination (oil, moisture, lotion), damaged nail plate, or premature water/heat exposure within 24 hours.
Prevention: Ensure clean, dry nail surface before application, avoid skin contact with gel, use correct lamp with proper cure time, and avoid prolonged water exposure for 24 hours after service.
How much does gel polish cost in salons?
UK salon pricing typically ranges £20–£55+ for gel polish manicures depending on location, salon positioning, and preparation technique. Standard gel polish: London and premium salons charge £35–£50, whilst regional areas offer £20–£35. Gel polish with Russian Manicure preparation: £45–£65+ due to advanced e-file cuticle work and extended service time. Additional nail art, French tips, or repairs increase cost further. Gel polish removal typically costs £5–£15 if not included with a new application.
What is the difference between Shellac and gel polish?
Shellac is a specific gel polish brand created by CND. “Gel polish” is the generic term for all UV/LED-cured polish systems. Shellac was the original product (launched 2010), and the term became synonymous with gel polish similar to how “Kleenex” represents all tissues. Today, numerous brands produce gel polish with varying formulations.
Are BIAB or builder gel infills better for clients who get their nails done regularly?
Yes. BIAB and builder gel systems that allow regular infills are highly advisable for clients who have their nails done continuously or on a 2–4 week cycle.
Infills remove only the regrowth area, meaning the bulk of the product stays on the nail. This significantly reduces:
- Repeated acetone exposure
- Repeated complete removal
- Repeated buffing of the nail plate
- Cumulative thinning of the natural nail
Infill-based systems (BIAB or builder gel) help maintain nail strength long term, lower the risk of dehydration, and protect the natural nail better than repeatedly soaking off gel polish every 2–3 weeks.
Learn Professional Gel Polish Technique
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About the Author: This article was written by Radina Ignatova, Professional Nail Expert and Founder of Artistic Touch – Nail Training Academy, based in Dundee, Scotland, UK. Radina specialises in gel polish systems, Russian Manicure, advanced nail techniques, and professional nail education.
About TheNailWiki: TheNailWiki provides free, evidence-based nail education to nail technicians and enthusiasts worldwide. Our content is written by experienced professionals and designed to build knowledge, improve technique, and support safe nail care practices.
